When word got out earlier this year that Michelin would be publishing its first-ever guide to New York City restaurants, it was generally thought that one, maybe two, establishments would be awarded three stars, the highest honor. That's because Michelin has traditionally erred on the side of caution in doling out stars and because it didn't appear that New York had more than one or two legitimate contenders. Thus, there were more than a few dropped forks when Michelin announced last week that it was bestowing three stars on not one but four New York restaurants—Alain Ducasse, Jean Georges, Le Bernardin, and Per Se. Is New York better than everyone thought? Or has Michelin just lowered its standards?

In launching a New York guide, Michelin had a choice to make: It could tell New Yorkers what they presumably wanted to hear—that, as upscale restaurants go, New York is now equal to Paris—or it could tell them the truth—that, fine as they are, New York's finest tables haven't yet reached those heights. Sure, taste is personal, and no doubt there are some people who think Per Se and Jean Georges are every bit as good as, say, Troisgros, the venerated family-run three-star in Roanne, or L'Arp�ge, the Parisian three-star run by the brilliant, enigmatic Alain Passard. But at the risk of injecting a degree of snobbery into the discussion, I don't think you'll find too many people with extensive three-star experience making that case.